The fume dial and decidedly un-chunky hands offer a grace not often seen alongside watches with 300 meter depth ratings. But even the Pelagos is more instantly recognizable as a tool/diver, where the Aquis has a simplicity and effortlessness to it that keeps you guessing, or wondering even. The Aquis is more akin to something like the Pelagos, marching to the beat of its own drum, so to speak. Oris has their Diver Sixty-Five line that covers that territory relatively well, I’d say. The Aquis is a contemporary diver, and doesn’t adhere to many of the design trends of the genre. So if you don’t like the dial and bezel presentation, you’re out of luck here.

It’s a clean look that’s accentuated by the lack of any real case shape to speak of, placing all emphasis on the dial. Wide bar hour markers and broadsword hands lend a sleek and legible dial aesthetic while a ceramic bezel matches the slope of the crystal. Each is built on the original formula which is defined by the tapered cylinder case and integrated steel bracelet or rubber strap. The new Aquis joins an already sizable collection that features a healthy range of LEs, case sizes and materials, and complications ( even a depth gauge). It might look the same, but this watch represents a new chapter for Oris’ most popular watch. Oris released an Aquis Date earlier this year, mercifully in their 41.5mm case, and within it have placed their new in-house automatic movement, the caliber 400 ( which we introduced here). I believe there are a few reasons for this, which I’ll get into, but first, let’s deal with the facts. The Oris Aquis is, by every measure, a well executed, simple dive watch, yet it reads very differently from other classically styled divers like those referenced above. A good diver, when done right, is also a great watch thanks to high legibility, a practical feature set, and a flexible design language that can span wardrobe styles with ease. The appeal of a simple, well done dive watch runs deep, and I suspect that’s why we see new contenders in this genre with regularity.

Chunky bezels, big hour markers, fat hands, and funky cases all appear heavily within my own watch box, from Seikos old and new to Rolex’s archetypal Submariner. When it comes to dive watches, I guess you could say I have a type.

Oris aquis date calibre 400 green